Heidelberg

First, I have to give a shout-out to the Weber family, whom I've stayed with on three separate occasions: first time was in High School through our exchange program, second time was last winter, and the third time was right before I headed off to Heidelberg. Each time they've really spoiled me with food, company, and lots of fun activities. My German "brother" Steffen took me around town, introduced me to some friends, and challenged me to darts and pool, which I was longing to play. I know I'll see him again but I think the visits will now be few and far between.

Wednesday, April 8, 2009

Ahhhh, on the road again. I think I'm sort of addicted to the taste. As difficult as it was to say goodbye to my German friends, I could still sense that I have some exciting travels ahead of me. I really enjoy being on the trail, wandering around cities, through nature, going on foot. I know at some point I would like to have a travel companion, but at the moment, I enjoy the peace. Plus, I totally feel like I'm on vacation: just letting my mind float instead of straining it over how to detail a door jamb for a motorized glass sliding door, framed by a concrete wall on one side, an elegant glass facade on the other, and a big slanted concrete outrigger above with a curved drop ceiling butting into it.

Still, the trip didn't really start off that nice: my ride to Heidelberg was 20 minutes late (the stereotype of German punctuality is totally not true!) and the hostel I looked up didn't exist so I had to walk 5 kilometers to the International Youth Hostel, which requires the membership card I left in Frankfurt. So, after checking in late at night and paying an extra 10 Euro, I sneaked into my bunk to a chorus of loud snores. I couldn't wait until the sun came up, so I could snap out of my restless sleep.

It's a beautiful morning in Heidelberg. The university-clinic is really nice and quiet with pristine, modern buildings; perfect for jogging and biking. A walking path leads me along the river straight to the East with the sun hanging low in front of me. My destination is the castle, which sits nestled in the shadowed hill 7 kilometers away. I remember bitterly how I arrived at dusk, missing out on the ideal evening sun for photographing the castle. However, as I overcome the steep hill and reach its plateau, satisfaction sets in when I see its peaceful remains set in front of a panoramic backdrop. There is not another person in sight until the church bells ring at 10am and groups of white-haired people come pouring in.

I'm now under the awning of a coffee shop taking refuge from the throngs of tourists in the mid-afternoon. The vibe is actually pretty good because there are no business people pushing their way through the pedestrian traffic like in bigger cities, rather the students occupy the daily activities of the "Altstadt." The university is tied into the old part of town and I even see a study group outside of a huge baroque church. I've seen the same thing in Marburg and I would imagine there are more examples in a lot of the old, smaller cities in Germany. Immediately after WW2, West Germany was developing business districts outside of the restricting medieval city centers with wider street grids based on the American model of city planning. As a cause of this movement, many of the old downtown buildings went vacant. Because power was shifting so rapidly in West Germany and there was such a big American presence, they didn't need a lot of old government buildings either, especially in the smaller cities like Marburg or Heidelberg. These bigger buildings were ideal for university classrooms, and the big old mansions people couldn't afford were often used as dormitories. This is how a lot of these university towns came about.

The "Altstadt" buildings aren't very impressive but these old structures keep their charm with the compliment of cobblestone and decorative signs and street lamps. I definitely recommend finding a tavern with the home-brewed Heidelberger beer. It's light, crisp, and made from their very own spring water; very yummy. The nicer houses are more on the outskirts of the "Altstadt". Many of them run along the old castle wall and have great views of the city (outdoor balconies and terraces are awesome, period). If you don't like making your home accessible and open to the outdoors, you would not want to hire me as your architect.